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![]() Yet, there are some of us who dislike letting go of old pieces of devices such as boomboxes. ![]() That’s why it is understandable that the electronics industry continues to produce innovative products that make music streaming easier than ever. It is in our nature to make music as a form of art, a way to express our feelings, and a means to record our rich history. ![]() Music is a part of a man’s life and has been for thousands of years. In this post, allow us to share with you how it can be done in only a few simple and easy-to-follow steps. Many have successfully tried doing so, some even with just basic knowledge in tinkering audio equipment. Like many devices from the past, old boomboxes can also be given new life and turned into a speaker. Still, there are a few that can be found in garage sales, antique stores, or in a family’s storage sheds. However, because of the rapid advancement of audio technology, it is now becoming more and more obsolete. Are you wondering how to make old boombox work like a speaker? This remarkable device was a big hit back in the 80s. ![]() So select your option and you will be all set. You will have then option to download it or stream it. ![]() You might get one or two pop up asking you to confirm purchase.keep on saying yes.ģ) then message will come, you have already purchased this video earlier, do you wish to download again for Free.say yes and it will get in your My video section. ![]() Not getting into technical details of who is responsible, bottom line solution is that you will have to simply download all the videos again.ġ) Click on the video that you had purchased earlier.Ģ) you will get a message, do you wish to buy the same. The support helped me solve my issue, so am writing this feedback for all users who are facing the challenge of missing videos post upgrade. Some limitation by apple mandates that In-App purchases to be downloaded again That means that the low speed end is at the bottom and the high speed end at the top.Because of this layout,all warnings associated with "OVERSPEEDS" including VFE appear RED on the TOP OF the speed Tape. The Speed Tape on the A320s PFDs, as also those i suppose in other 'Glass Cockpits'including Boeings,runs from bottom to top. However, it is my suspicion that the Speed Tape on the PFD(primary flight display) could have contributed significantly to the setting in, of this disorientation The primary finding,simply put, is ' pilot disorientation' Ever since i read the report on the Gulf Air A320 Accident in Bahrain, the bit about the '11 seconds of forward input on the sidestick from the time overspeed warning sounded,right upto the impact ' has been nagging me. There are some el-cheapo aluminum heads on Ebay.but not too often recommended by the Mustang crowd. Edelbrock's are hard to beat for the money.but still expensive. Trick flow's are not bad but AFR heads are really good and have taken over the Mustang scene. If this has all been covered before I would appreciate a pointer to the thread, but I did not find this in my search. I lean toward carburated for build economy and simpler electrical, but would consider EFI and aftermarket controller. ![]() A few of questions for the blue oval guys:ġ) is there an alternate more economical head out there that might get close to the AFR for results?Ģ) assuming the AFR heads, what cam would you recommend for a stick shift highboy that will be for highway/cruising? A bit of lumpy idle is not a bad thing, but want it to maintain good street manners and reasonable economy.ģ) The Car Craft build used a Road Demon 625 cfm carb on a Weiand dual-plane. Now those AFR heads list for $1450 which is doable but pricey. Lists the basic specs and shows their results with the AFR 165cc heads and a set of stepped tri-y headers plus some 1.7:1 roller rockers with everything else stock - not too shabby 405hp and 380 ft-lb. Talking to my son who hot rodded a Fox body Mustang a few years back I am leaning towards a 302 from the '83-'93 range for the roller cam as opposed to a 351. ![]() Considering an engine for a new '32 build I am a fan of Ford in Ford. ![]() I said, without a second of hesitation, yup. ![]() "Are you sure you wanted to put money into that old saw?". Has slight differences from yours.Ī local guy that does mower/chainsaw repairs here asked the same thing when I needed a new chain (and I got a new bar as well) a couple years ago. My XL-12 with it's pretty new Oregon bar and chain would make yours look new. XL supposedly meant eXtra Light, and the 12 was the weight of the saw head. Your "heavy" saw comment I found kinda entertaining, since back in the 60's the XL-12 was marketed as "the lightest direct-drive chainsaw". In 1971 or 72 the XL-12 changed to red from blue.ģ. If the serial number has 7 digits, then it's a '63 up to maybe a '66. Without a serial # I can't say for sure, but based on the pics of your saw, type of muffler, style of handle, it looks like late 60's perhaps up to 1970 or 71. So it looks like that saw could be a regular XL-12. To my knowledge, all Super XL's had come with an auto oiler. The pics you attached look like it has a manual oiler for the bar. (I'd also like to see a "newer" plastic saw survive falling out of my tractor bucked several times.hey, it happens)Ģ. See if those "New" saws they have now will be alive, running and be able to get parts for in 50 yrs. ![]() Don't listen to the "a newer saw" is the way to go folks here. |
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